Wine, Travel and Things You Should Ask the Sommelier

Napa Valley

Some things just go well together: chocolate and peanut butter (who knows why); thunder and lightning (hopefully never when we’re waiting for a flight); and, of course, a glass of wine and a gorgeous destination. To celebrate the launch of wine selections on our sister site Gilt Taste, we spoke with sommeliers Joe Campanale and Jordan Salcito about Napa and Tuscany, and how to work with a sommelier. (Hint: Never simply order the second-least expensive bottle of wine.)

Q: Let’s talk about Napa. It’s the capital of American wine country. What makes it so special, and what are some trends you see there?

Joe Campanale: Napa used to be America’s answer to Bordeaux and Burgundy. We produced balanced, earthy wines, made by farmers, but now it’s more about how much power, extraction, fruit and alcohol we can get in the wine.

Joe Campanale

Joe Campanale

I think the reasons are twofold. Part of it has to do with the fact that most of the major wine critics have similar palettes: They go for how big and impressive a wine can be in terms of its extract and largesse. They tend to rate wines very similarly; I think a lot of sommeliers don’t agree with them. Those aren’t necessarily the wines that go best with food.

If you’re drinking a lot of wines at a tasting, what’s going to stand out to you, 20 wines in? Not your elegant, nuanced, earthy old wine, but the one that knocks your socks off. Luckily we’re seeing some movement back now toward the older style. People are going for wines that are more balanced, more moderate in alcohol, and we see that switch going on right now.

Q: Which wines does Napa do best, and why?

Jordan Salcito: In addition to being sort of the Medoc of the U.S, Napa is also a really diverse area in terms of soil. There are about 100 known types of different soils: Napa has 51 of them, which is more than any other place in the world. It’s a really diverse place that makes for really diverse wines. It’s obviously sunny in California, so typically you have grapes that are really sweet. Generally speaking, you get wines that are higher in alcohol and sweetness. They’re really excellent, juicy wines.

Cabernet does really well there, and there are also great Pinot Noirs in Napa that tend to be jammy types. The Chardonnays are also rich, lovely and opulent. The Sauvignon Blanc from Napa is typically aged in oak. You’ll get a more crisp type of Sauvignon Blanc in the Loire, whereas it’s more lush in Napa. You’ll find some of the best of the best. It’s really great to see how Napa has come into its own, and in some ways, Bordeaux seems to be modeling itself after Napa these days.

Q: What about Tuscany? How does it differ from a place like Napa, and what makes it unique as a wine region?

Jordan Salcito

Jordan Salcito

Jordan Salcito: Tuscany is a little different in that it’s cooler there. The wines go so well with the food, which is why it’s so natural to have wine with lunch and dinner. The major grape is Sangiovese. To me, it tastes like sour cherries and roasted herbs, and it’s got a high acidity rate. That can scare people some time, but it shouldn’t. The wine here should have more acidity because it can slice through the food, through that meatball or prosciutto you’re eating. It’s a great grape, but it doesn’t like to behave outside of its homeland.

Joe Campanale: If you’re going on a wine tour in Tuscany, you must go to Montalcino. And you’ve got to go to Chianti. In Chianti, don’t miss Panzano. There are two of the top producers of Chianti, Fontodi and Castello di Rapolla . And Italy’s most famous butcher, a guy named Dario Cecchini, has his butcher shop and restaurant there. He has a more formal restaurant as well as a more fun, casual one that he says is for the workers. It’s because the meats there aren’t the fancier cuts, but you always eat interesting stuff. I think he puts the most passion into that.

Q: Here’s a question you probably get a lot: What should people keep in mind when approaching a wine list?

Jordan Salcito: Every wine list is different: That’s the creative element of the sommelier. So it’s never the same. I like to teach people about wine by the grape, so they know what to expect from the taste. If you understand that, and then more about the region, you’ll know what to do.

Joe Campanale: The best thing to do is figure out what your flavor profile is. Obviously the first thing is knowing whether you want white, red, rose or sparkling. Then if you want light bodied or full bodied. Fruit-forward or earthy. Oaked or un-oaked. And just saying those few things will help a sommelier so much. If you say, “I want a full-bodied, fruit-forward, oaked red,” that will help a sommelier know which five wines on the list will fit your profile. But I think a lot of people aren’t confident enough to say those few words.

Q: What’s the one thing people should never do when ordering from a wine list?

Jordan Salcito: Pretend that they know more than they do. All you have to do is ask the sommelier. People just guess — everyone’s done it, I’ve done it. If you’re at a great restaurant and you just ask the server, they’ll know what’s been going out fresh, what’s new, what the chef’s excited about. Use that to your advantage with both food and wine.

Joe Campanale: Don’t order the second least expensive wine on the list. I think people think it’s some kind of scheme, but it’s not. Just order the wine that you feel comfortable with that fits what you like to drink and goes with your food. Don’t order wine you’re not comfortable paying for; it should be an enjoyable thing. But I also encourage people to indulge when they can. If you can swing it, there’s usually a really good payoff.

Joe’s recommendations:

Napa:

Wineries: Schramsberg, Matthiasson, Arnot-Roberts, Lioco, Kalin Cellars (which is technically in Marin County)

Dining: Redd, Ad Hoc (Thomas Keller’s more casual place), the Oakville Grocery (a gourmet store for stocking up for a picnic), Bistro Jeanty (a casual bistro where you’ll see all the winemakers)

Tuscany:

Make sure you call ahead before visiting wineries, particularly in Italy.

Wineries: Fontodi, Montevertine, Le Boncie, Felsina

Dining: Ristorante Solociccia (only meat), Osteria Le Logge (in Siena)

For more wine country travel ideas, check out our collection of Vineyard Vacations.

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